The story of Baluchari in Murshidabad started in 1703 ,when Murshidkuli Khan shifted his capital from Dacca to a place by the banks of the Bhagirathi,later to be known as Murshidabad.Along with him came the artisans and craftsmen of his court.They were given a tract of land at a village called Baluchar,eight Kms from Murshidabad .There lies the origin of the name.Later on the place came to be known as Jiaganj.
Bengal was the leader in silk production in the seventeenth century.Portugeese,Ductch and the British set up manufacturing facilities at Cossimbazar and Malda.India and China were the leaders in silk production in those days.Nawabs and the nobility were the patrons in those days,and the art flourished.Balucheri was shipped all over India and shipped abroad.Several other villages of the neighbouring areas forming the Baluchar circuit,like Brahmapur,took up this craft.However consecutive calamities like earthquake and flood and famine led to the abandonment of the craft.Weavers migrated to Bishnupur,200 kms away.It is only in the last twenty odd years has the craft returned to Jiaganj and restarted the looms.
Silk is procured from Malda and Bangalore.Murshidabad silk is not suitable for good quality baluchari.The silk is first boiled in water with soap and soda,and then dyed.
After dyeing is complete,the thread is setup in the looms.Designs have been procured from Bishnupur.It is a laborious process,each saree takes five days or more to make.Due to the intricacies in design,power looms are yet to be operational.
Baluchari sarees are full,of motifs.The motifs are derived from from mythology and folklore.With the advent of Muslim nawabs,Persian motifs were introduced.And withEast India Company,English motifs.Sarees are very colourful.
Each loom makes around thirty sarees of same design,they are kept rolled up before they are finished individually.The covid pandemic has affected sales drastically,and weavers face an uncertain future.
Memories and musings 